Nächste Veranstaltungen

Topkapı Sarayı’ndaki Din Konulu Tekstillere Genel Bir Bakış

Prof. Dr. Hülya Tezcan (Nişantaşı Üniversitesi):

Çarşamba, 29 Eylül 2021, 18:00 (GMT+3)

Topkapı Sarayı Padişah Elbiseleri Koleksiyonu’nda seksen yedi adet tılsımlı gömlek, bir yaka, beş takke, on yazılı örtüden oluşan yaklaşık yüz civarında eser bulunur. Bu gömleklerin kişiyi hastalıklara ve türlü kötülüklere karşı koruduğuna, hastalara şifa verdiğine ve giyeni savaşta muzaffer kıldığına inanılırdı. Tılsımlı gömlekler aharlanarak kâğıt özelliği kazandırılmış ince pamuklu kumaşlardan dikilmiştir. Üzerlerine Kur’an ayetleri, Allah’ın güzel isimleri, semboller, hat, nakışlar, ve rakamlar (cifr) ile ibarelerden (vefk) oluşan geometrik şekiller yazılmıştır. Topkapı Sarayı Koleksiyonu’nda yaldızlı, çok değerli hat ve tezhiplerle süslenmiş padişahlara ve hanedana ait gömleklerin yanında dervişler tarafından kullanılan daha mütevazi tılsımlı gömlek örnekleri de bulunur. Bu tılsımlı kıyafetler, kitap sanatları ile Osmanlı giyim kuşam âdetlerinin çok ilgi çekici bir sentezidir.

Topkapı Sarayı Koleksiyonları’nda bulunan din konulu tekstillere başka örnekler olarak Kâbe örtüleri (kisve) ve her sene İstanbul’dan Mekke’ye bir kervanla hediye gönderilen surre çadırları gösterilebilir. 1517 senesinden itibaren Osmanlı padişahları her sene Kâbe’ye yeni bir örtü yaptırmış ve altın iplerle işlenen bu örtüler, belirli ritüeller eşliğinde surre alayları ile Mekke’ye gönderilmiştir.

Bu konuşmada, uzun yıllar Topkapı Sarayı Padişah Elbiseleri Koleksiyonu’nun küratörlüğünü yapan Prof. Dr. Hülya Tezcan bu koleksiyona genel bir bakış sunacak ve eserlerin önemini ve çeşitliliğini anlatacaktır. Tezcan, İslam kültürünün tekstil boyutunun incelenmesi adına zengin bir arşiv arz eden bu koleksiyona dair tecrübelerini de bizimle paylaşacaktır.

Prof. Dr. Hülya Tezcan, İstanbul Üniversitesi Edebiyat Fakültesi Sanat Tarihi Bölümü’nden 1968 yılında mezun oldu. 1971’de Topkapı Sarayı Müzesi’nde göreve başlayan Tezcan, 1978’den itibaren Padişah Elbiseleri Bölümü sorumlusu olarak çalıştı ve 2006’da emekli oldu. Müzede çalıştığı yıllarda, akademik kariyerine Bizans arkeolojisi alanında bir doktora tezi ile devam etti. Yüzün üzerinde makalesi, ansiklopedi maddesi, ulusal ve uluslararası konferans bildirisi vardır. Yayınlarından bazıları: Atlaslar Atlası (1993), İpek. Osmanlı Dokuma Sanatı (2001, Nurhan Atasoy ve Walter Denny ile), Sarayın Terzisi: M.Palma – D.Lena – P.Parma (2008), Tılsımlı Gömlekler (2011) ve Kutsal Mekânlarda Kutsanmış Örtüler: Topkapı Sarayı’ndan Örneklerle Kâbe Örtüleri (2017). Prof. Dr. Tezcan Nişantaşı Üniversitesi, Tekstil ve Moda Tasarımı Bölümü’nde ders vermektedir.

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To attend this lecture, prior registration is necessary. Please send an email specifying your name and academic affiliation to events@oiist.net by 11 October 2021 (Monday) at the latest. For technical reasons, the number of participants is limited. You will be informed about the organizational and technical procedure before the lecture starts.

Many historical vestments and church fabrics of the Greek Orthodox rite survive today in monastic sacristies and museums. Until now, textile and dress scholars have primarily focused on their ultimate origin, historic evolution, and dogmatic meaning. In my view, these important material remnants inform us on underexplored dynamics in the society that produced them and illuminate the ways in which trends originating from different milieus were appropriated within clerical context. As reflections of cultural, religious, and artistic identity, ecclesial fabrics can offer insights on the Church’s association to religious otherness and profane, or better, court aesthetics. Focusing on liturgical textiles and vestments, the lecture will discuss how the “Islamic” and “secular” elements were negotiated by the Church during Byzantine and Ottoman times. Essentially, our discussion will be centered on the tension between the usefulness and the limitations these taxonomies present when studying premodern church material culture.

Nikolaos Vryzidis is a postdoctoral research fellow at the Department of History and Archaeology of the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki. His scholarly work explores issues of identity in relation to material culture, and especially ecclesial textiles and metalwork, in the late medieval and early modern Mediterranean, subjects on which he has written more than twenty articles and book chapters. In 2016 he convened a conference on Mediterranean textiles, which resulted in an edited volume of essays (The Hidden Life of Textiles in the Medieval and Early Modern Mediterranean) published by Brepols in 2020. He also pursues research in cross-cultural aspects of medieval art, part of which will be published in a forthcoming volume on the religious arts that he currently co-edits.

This lecture is part of the lecture series „Fabrics of Devotion: Religious Textiles in the Eastern Mediterranean“

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To attend this lecture, prior registration is necessary. Please send an email specifying your name and academic affiliation to events@oiist.net by 18 October 2021 (Monday) at the latest. For technical reasons, the number of participants is limited. You will be informed about the organizational and technical procedure before the lecture starts.

INVITATION TO AN ONLINE LECTURE

“Fabrics of Devotion: Religious Textiles in the Eastern Mediterranean”

The Jewish Prayer Shawl Tallit

Dr. Esther Juhasz (Shenkar College /The Israel Museum, Jerusalem)

Wednesday, 20 October 2021, 19:00 (Turkish time, GMT+3)

The tallit, the fringed garment, is worn by observant Jewish males to this day. The appending of the fringes – tzitzit – to one’s attire is a fundamental biblical commandment, and its significance transcends the realm of dress. Its fulfillment is deemed equivalent to the fulfillment of all the mitzvot (commandments) a Jew is expected to perform.

The commandment is imbued with mnemonic, mystical, and magical meanings, and is expressed in the halakhic literature and in the wealth of local custom and interpretation. These bear on such material matters as the fabric, size, color, and knotting of the tassels, on who may make the tallit or knot the tassel strings, and on how, when, and where the garments should be worn and more. Drawing on decades of research of aspects Sephardi material culture in the Ottoman Empire and on her experience working with the ethnographic collections of The Israel Museum (Jerusalem), Esther Juhasz will shed light onto the vital role and the multiple implications of threads, knots, fringes, and fabrics in Jewish ritual life, past and present.

Dr. Esther Juhasz is a researcher of Jewish material culture who studies dress, textiles and visual religion in the intersection between art, folk culture and popular culture. She has worked for many years in curatorial and research positions at The Israel Museum, Jerusalem. There she specialized in ethnography and published the book Sephardi Jews in the Ottoman Empire. Aspects of Material Culture (1990) for which she received the Dawidowic Prize for Ethnography and Folklore.

She holds an M.A in Art History and a Ph.D. in the Folklore and Folk Culture Studies department at the Hebrew University. Currently she is teaching at Shenkar College of Engineering Design and Art in Ramat Gan. Her recent publications include The Jewish Wardrobe. From The Collections of the Israel Museum (2012), of which she is both the editor and principal author, Trousseau Lists of Jewish Brides from Izmir Between an Official  document and a Personal Narrative (2015), and Visibility, Perception and Memory in Clothes: Dilemmas of Identity in the Dress of Jewish Women in Immigrant Communities (2020).

Photo: Tzitzit (fringes) of the Tallit. © The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, by Mauro Magliani

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